Tackling the Oddest Cut & Making Head Cheese

In all our charcuterie practice, there's one part of the pig that we've never fully explored. We finally faced the meat and it returned a couple pounds of tender succulent pulled pieces, 7 quarts of stock, and one specimen for anatomy study. What was it?

The head.

When we contracted with a butcher to eviscerate and skin our last pig from Six Bucket's Farm, it arrived head on. "What will we do with that?" we wondered as we dutifully packaged it for the freezer. Our next pig is growing large and almost due to head to the butcher as well, so we're clearing out the freezer. The head demanded our attention.

Making Head Cheese

Alex started the cooking by simmering the head and a ham hock in a large pot of water with onions and garlic overnight in a low stove. (This is the way we make all stock now, by the way.) Next, he picked the meat off the bones, reserving the liquid stock. Lil loved these meat pickings, eating two meals of pork chunks alone.

To make the terrine, Alex combined the meat with spices and a bit of stock. He compressed this mixture in a mold overnight. Find a full recipe in Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing, though Alex adapted for the winter season by using stronger clove and allspice seasonings.

"Why does this have to be called head cheese?" I moaned to Alex. It's a seriously delicious potted meat with a name that turns so many people away. The 'cheese' part is a complete misnomer because it's not made of milk or cured with lactofermentation or melty or anything like cheese. Pork terrine is a generic but adequate descriptor. Charcuterie friends also suggested pig parts terrine, souse, or braun.

We're fortunate to have culinarily curious friends who were able to get over the name and try our head cheese. Served on homemade baguette with sour cherry spread, they loved it.

Using Every Last Bit

Later, I reheated the strained stock, sanitized jars, and pressure canned it. Our selection of nourishing stock makes warm meals simple - open a jar, add veggies, meat, noodles, and/or dumplings, and soup is served.

Finally, we needed to dispense of the large skull and jaw bone. The chickens would love cleaning the bones, but instead we delivered them to Alex's mom, a teacher at the School for Young Children, a play-based preschool. She sanitized the bones and added them to the SYC nature table. Lil demands that the next skull can't be given away because she wants it for herself to study.

Meat is Meat is Meat

In processing the pig's head for edible meat, we concluded again that there are no 'good cuts' and 'odd cuts'. It's all just meat.

Some choose not to consume animal flesh, and that's OK. But for those of us who do, what's the difference between eating an animal's thigh versus the cheek? Flesh and fat can be enjoyed from any part of the animal. Bacon, the revered 'makes everything tastier' meat, is from a belly that wallows in mud, if the animal lives a good life.

If you're eating meat at all, you owe it to the creature to use every part. Now we know that the head isn't just an odd cut to be conquered, but one full of succulent meals.

Have you made or eaten head cheese? 

Tackling the Oddest Cut & Making Head Cheese

In all our charcuterie practice, there's one part of the pig that we've never fully explored. We finally faced the meat and it returned a couple pounds of tender succulent pulled pieces, 7 quarts of stock, and one specimen for anatomy study. What was it?

The head.

When we contracted with a butcher to eviscerate and skin our last pig from Six Bucket's Farm, it arrived head on. "What will we do with that?" we wondered as we dutifully packaged it for the freezer. Our next pig is growing large and almost due to head to the butcher as well, so we're clearing out the freezer. The head demanded our attention.

Making Head Cheese

Alex started the cooking by simmering the head and a ham hock in a large pot of water with onions and garlic overnight in a low stove. (This is the way we make all stock now, by the way.) Next, he picked the meat off the bones, reserving the liquid stock. Lil loved these meat pickings, eating two meals of pork chunks alone.

To make the terrine, Alex combined the meat with spices and a bit of stock. He compressed this mixture in a mold overnight. Find a full recipe in Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing, though Alex adapted for the winter season by using stronger clove and allspice seasonings.

"Why does this have to be called head cheese?" I moaned to Alex. It's a seriously delicious potted meat with a name that turns so many people away. The 'cheese' part is a complete misnomer because it's not made of milk or cured with lactofermentation or melty or anything like cheese. Pork terrine is a generic but adequate descriptor. Charcuterie friends also suggested pig parts terrine, souse, or braun.

We're fortunate to have culinarily curious friends who were able to get over the name and try our head cheese. Served on homemade baguette with sour cherry spread, they loved it.

Using Every Last Bit

Later, I reheated the strained stock, sanitized jars, and pressure canned it. Our selection of nourishing stock makes warm meals simple - open a jar, add veggies, meat, noodles, and/or dumplings, and soup is served.

Finally, we needed to dispense of the large skull and jaw bone. The chickens would love cleaning the bones, but instead we delivered them to Alex's mom, a teacher at the School for Young Children, a play-based preschool. She sanitized the bones and added them to the SYC nature table. Lil demands that the next skull can't be given away because she wants it for herself to study.

Meat is Meat is Meat

In processing the pig's head for edible meat, we concluded again that there are no 'good cuts' and 'odd cuts'. It's all just meat.

Some choose not to consume animal flesh, and that's OK. But for those of us who do, what's the difference between eating an animal's thigh versus the cheek? Flesh and fat can be enjoyed from any part of the animal. Bacon, the revered 'makes everything tastier' meat, is from a belly that wallows in mud, if the animal lives a good life.

If you're eating meat at all, you owe it to the creature to use every part. Now we know that the head isn't just an odd cut to be conquered, but one full of succulent meals.

Have you made or eaten head cheese? 

Tackling Outdoor Chores In Bitter Cold

Forecasts for central Ohio predict some of the coldest temperatures in decades over the next few days. We're preparing the wood stock, reinforcing the livestock (straw bales everywhere!), and planning a menu of warm foods.

One reality of keeping animals is that we must go outside several times a day to tend them every day, more often in the coldest weather. With adequate preparation, appropriate gear, and a smooth routine, chores in the cold feel more like a triumph than, well, a chore.

Mentally Prepare -

Every morning in the winter, I lay in bed for at least fifteen minutes readying myself to put my feet on the floor. It's not that I don't want to wake - it's that my first task of the day is to head outside with the dog and a chicken waterer to open up the coop. My face full of wind and snow is not a gentle way to start the day, but the thought of my hens waiting in the coop motivates me to face the weather.

Dress In Wool, Silk, and Fleece Layers -

To feel most comfortable, cover your body in materials that insulate even when wet, with no breaks where cold air can come in. Layers create pockets of air around your body that will stay warm from your own body heat.

My base layer everyday is usually fine merino wool. If I'm just feeding the chickens, I'll put jeans and a sweater on top. If the chores are more lengthy, I choose Carhartt Overalls and a heavy fleece. Then comes my two-layer fleece and waterproof-breathable jacket. I have wool stocks, gloves, and a hat which are topped with a second layer of wool socks, waterproof gloves and hood in the coldest weather. I choose my Bogs High Boots for water-proof insulating footwear. A wool or silk scarf which can be pulled over the nose and sunglasses to help protect my eyes from wind complete the outfit.

Compiling adequate layers can take years of investing in quality pieces. We like to shop REI outlet and Sierra Trading Post for discontinued and clearance clothing from reputable makers like Marmot, Smartwool, and Mountain Hardwear. Thrift stores are a great source of fleece, wool tops, and boots.

Gather Supplies Under Shelter -

If at all possible, stay out of the wind and precipitation as often as you can, especially when gathering supplies. We rotate our chicken waterers, keeping the empties in our mudroom so we can fill them in the house. When I'm taking out compost, ashes, or trash, I stage those in the mudroom so that I can grab them quickly without tracking snow in the house and letting cold air in. Similarly, we use the garage for supply and tool storage. Every tool has a place so that we aren't outside searching in cold weather.

Work Quickly -

When you finally make a break through the wind-chill and snow, work as efficiently as possible without making mistakes. Spills are the worst because wet clothes are heavy and uncomfortable, though if you've chosen wool, silk, and fleece, they will still keep you warm. Skip mentoring children through chores or tackling a big project in frigid weather - keep your outside tasks to a minimum to avoid frustration and frostbite.

Warm Up With A Hot Drink -

Finally, come inside and warm up. Unwrap the layers and change into something dry if you're wet from precipitation or sweating. I turn on the tea kettle as I walk in the door and warm up from the inside out with hot tea, coffee, or a rum flip, depending on the time of day. If hot drinks aren't your thing, do sip on a glass of water - your body dehydrates rapidly in cold weather. Bask in the triumph of braving the weather and completing your chores in (relative) comfort!

How do you stay comfortable during winter outdoor chores?

Tackling Outdoor Chores In Bitter Cold

Forecasts for central Ohio predict some of the coldest temperatures in decades over the next few days. We're preparing the wood stock, reinforcing the livestock (straw bales everywhere!), and planning a menu of warm foods.

One reality of keeping animals is that we must go outside several times a day to tend them every day, more often in the coldest weather. With adequate preparation, appropriate gear, and a smooth routine, chores in the cold feel more like a triumph than, well, a chore.

Mentally Prepare -

Every morning in the winter, I lay in bed for at least fifteen minutes readying myself to put my feet on the floor. It's not that I don't want to wake - it's that my first task of the day is to head outside with the dog and a chicken waterer to open up the coop. My face full of wind and snow is not a gentle way to start the day, but the thought of my hens waiting in the coop motivates me to face the weather.

Dress In Wool, Silk, and Fleece Layers -

To feel most comfortable, cover your body in materials that insulate even when wet, with no breaks where cold air can come in. Layers create pockets of air around your body that will stay warm from your own body heat.

My base layer everyday is usually fine merino wool. If I'm just feeding the chickens, I'll put jeans and a sweater on top. If the chores are more lengthy, I choose Carhartt Overalls and a heavy fleece. Then comes my two-layer fleece and waterproof-breathable jacket. I have wool stocks, gloves, and a hat which are topped with a second layer of wool socks, waterproof gloves and hood in the coldest weather. I choose my Bogs High Boots for water-proof insulating footwear. A wool or silk scarf which can be pulled over the nose and sunglasses to help protect my eyes from wind complete the outfit.

Compiling adequate layers can take years of investing in quality pieces. We like to shop REI outlet and Sierra Trading Post for discontinued and clearance clothing from reputable makers like Marmot, Smartwool, and Mountain Hardwear. Thrift stores are a great source of fleece, wool tops, and boots.

Gather Supplies Under Shelter -

If at all possible, stay out of the wind and precipitation as often as you can, especially when gathering supplies. We rotate our chicken waterers, keeping the empties in our mudroom so we can fill them in the house. When I'm taking out compost, ashes, or trash, I stage those in the mudroom so that I can grab them quickly without tracking snow in the house and letting cold air in. Similarly, we use the garage for supply and tool storage. Every tool has a place so that we aren't outside searching in cold weather.

Work Quickly -

When you finally make a break through the wind-chill and snow, work as efficiently as possible without making mistakes. Spills are the worst because wet clothes are heavy and uncomfortable, though if you've chosen wool, silk, and fleece, they will still keep you warm. Skip mentoring children through chores or tackling a big project in frigid weather - keep your outside tasks to a minimum to avoid frustration and frostbite.

Warm Up With A Hot Drink -

Finally, come inside and warm up. Unwrap the layers and change into something dry if you're wet from precipitation or sweating. I turn on the tea kettle as I walk in the door and warm up from the inside out with hot tea, coffee, or a rum flip, depending on the time of day. If hot drinks aren't your thing, do sip on a glass of water - your body dehydrates rapidly in cold weather. Bask in the triumph of braving the weather and completing your chores in (relative) comfort!

How do you stay comfortable during winter outdoor chores?

Devorguilla, The Original Baying Hound {Obituary}

Devorguilla, a.k.a. Devie, our blue tick coon hound mix, died today, December 29, 2013. She was approximately thirteen years old, having been adopted as a young adult at the Capital Area Humane Society in January 2002. She is survived by little hound Hawise, cats Moonshine and Nightshade and people Alex, Lillian, and Rachel.

Despite our attempts at training, Devie was a headstrong troublemaker. She bayed at everyone who entered, stopping only when she was ready. Barking was how she related to other dogs and while we understood her noise to be playful, most other hounds cowered away from her. She surfed counters, scavenged floors, and ate anything possibly food-like. In her twelve years with the Tayse Baillieuls, she consumed the following in addition to regular meals: human birthday cakes, six packages of raisins to include packaging in one sitting, several bronze ring nails and the plywood they were attached to, boozy fruitcakes, chocolate truffles, a sheet pan of cookies, compost, a bag of flour, trash, and countless breakfasts, lunches, and dinners left unattended for a few seconds. Devie's stomach of steel allowed that these indiscretions were uncomfortable for her but didn't results in messes for her family beyond the missing food.

While she was difficult to live with, Devie was easy to love. Friends and neighbors who understand hounds carried on howling conversations with her. Many admired Dev's unflagging devotion to food, annoying as it was.

She was extremely gentle, especially around Lillian. Devie not only tolerated but seemed to enjoy being dressed up and always won 'cuteness contests', Lil's habit of dressing up pets and stuffed animals for fashion shows. Devie's coloring was beautiful and inspired our first business name, the Baying Hound. After losing an eye to persistent infection in 2010 she became even more striking.

We noticed Devie slowing down this autumn. When she stopped enjoying food, her one true love, this week, it was our signal that organ degeneration or cancer had progressed enough to severely affect her quality of life. We made the difficult choice of euthanasia. She was buried at home.

Rest in peace, Devorguilla. You will be missed.

Winter Solstice 2013 {Seasonal Snaps}

On the first day of winter 2013, central Ohio was subject to flood watches. Our property developed two temporary ponds and two whole acres of mud as several inches of rain melted four inches of snow. One of the ponded areas is where we plowed about a quarter acre of lawn for planting next year. The plan is to till it and fill in low spots with additional soil when the land dries but does not freeze. We may be waiting until spring for that chore.

But the sun shone and heated the air to nearly 60 degrees during the afternoon. The sky was BLUE and the air felt like April. I was happily barefoot most of the day with windows open to air out the house. Thanks to the thawed earth, I was able to pull five pounds of sweet, anise-y parsnips to serve for Christmas Eve dinner. What a precious reprieve from the typical winter ick!

Alas, because of the long very cold spell in early December, the hoop house is nearly empty. A few plantings of greens are hanging on but not growing much. There are peas in the center I hoped to harvest; even though they aren't producing food, I'm leaving them as a green mulch.

I started the Seasonal Snaps project one year ago for Winter Solstice 2012. Our homestead isn't nearly grown to where I envision it but you can see some of the major changes. Our small orchard is planted, we have a hoop house for growing, the mudroom is built and insulated, and we're working on a bigger better vegetable plot.

Rain, snow, and sunshine all contribute to the food forest we tend. We are again thankful for the turning of the seasons that hearkens us to look back at where we've come and set our intentions for the future.

Announcing City Folk's Ground Swell!

I'm excited to spread the news about a project that's been simmering for more than six months. Shawn of City Folk's Farm Shop* approached me in the early spring about an idea to create a 'school' of sorts for homesteading. We worked on the concept, recruited a few other experienced homesteaders, and came up with City Folk's Ground Swell. Ground Swell will be a nine-month long project to inspire and educate a small group of mentees running February - November 2014. Our goal is to expand the homesteading community and recognition for efforts towards sustainable living in central Ohio.

Mentees will take classes at the shop (also open to the public), participate in group discussions, and work on special projects with the mentor families. In exchange, they will receive guidance from mentors, discounts at City Folk's, and the opportunity to re-skill themselves in keeping house, growing and preserving food, and weaving a sustainable community.

Our family is part of the mentor team alongside Joseph and Jen of Swainway Urban Farm, permaculturists Milo and Elizabeth, and Blue Rock Station's Annie and Jay. We're participating because we want a bigger community of serious gardeners, pantry-fillers, and eco-friendly folks to share and learn with.

We're looking for mentees who want to be part of the inaugural class of City Folk's Ground Swell. I know Harmonious Homestead readers are people who have what it takes to challenge themselves with the support of the mentor team - learn more and apply to be a mentee! Applications are due by January 30.

*Full disclosure: I help Shawn with social media, communications, and occasionally work in the shop as a paid consultant.

On Gift Giving

Our family often touts homesteading as a way to experience an authentic life, one filled with real food and real work. We like to spend our time making and doing, not accumulating. But this time of year, the winter holiday season, we struggle the most with balancing thriftiness with giftiness, like so many people. Even though we don't subscribe to cable TV, newspapers, or magazines, we feel inundated with the advertising message to 'buy, buy, buy'. Lil, who only knows TV shows on Netflix and PBS, can still somehow sing a dozen current advertising jingles at any moment.

Consumer Counter Culture

Alex and I see through the commercials that equate stuff to happiness and we help Lil investigate ads. We talk with her about how a house filled with stuff is not necessarily a house of fulfilled people. We evaluate our own desires carefully - do we want new clothes because everyone else has them or because there's something ill-fitting or worn with our current clothes? Do we need a particular item or do we just want it because we heard about it somewhere?

Choosing to surround ourselves with good folks who share our anti-consumer ideals is the biggest threat to the Consume More Monster. We exchange, borrow, and barter with friends who do more with less. We frequently allow our kids to hear about what we're saving for and our tirades about inappropriate and ineffective advertising.

Gift Giving Alternatives

We could opt out of gift giving entirely, but that's not our family's way. We cherish the opportunity to think about what a person would really love. So how do we build our gift giving list?  We focus on what a gift recipient might use and appreciate in their day to day life. According to a recent survey by Kenmore,  '79% of Americans prefer a practical gift that they could use in their home over a trendy novelty gift'.

Most of our gifts this year are homemade and will be eaten, drunk, or otherwise used until they disappear in a few weeks or months. Does that mean the recipient will forget about our appreciation of them? We hope just the opposite - they will think of us every time they use spice rub or cocoa mix until the jar is empty. If all goes according to plan, we'll reconnect over a meal to exchange the empty jar for a full one, a true 'gift that keeps on giving'. Handmade gifts say "I thought about you while making this."

Another focus of our gift giving is experiential gifts - paper promises, games, trips to a special place, and memberships. The Kenmore survey also found that '85% of Americans have avoided making a certain food because of the cleanup associated with it' - maybe a gift certificate for party cleanup would fit someone on your list? Experiential gifts communicate "I want to spend time with you, not spend money on you".

Last Minute Gift Ideas

There are still ten days until Christmas during which you could can some apple butter or craft a handmade stainless steel straw or even make a quick liqueur. But  holiday gatherings and work projects to wrap up can limit gift-making time. Instead of shopping for stuff, consider one of these experiential gifts, local to Columbus though your area may have similar options:

• Columbus Brew Adventures or Columbus Food Adventures tour - I still need to write about our Granville area beer tour in detail but in short it was crazy good times and I have fond memories of the several Columbus Food Adventures tours I've attended.
• Green BEAN delivery gift certificate - Weekly deliveries of organic produce are a true boon for people who have trouble getting out, a couple who car share, or anyone who appreciates cooking whole food. I wrote about our experience with Green BEAN a couple years ago.
• Cooking or Gardening Class - I love teaching friends or couples who come to my The Seasoned Farmhouse and City Folk's Farm Shop classes. I hear them murmuring plans to practice together the skills I introduce, a true gift of partnership.

How do you handle gift giving in our highly commercialized consumer culture?