Lil's New Garden

A recent post of mine is eligible to win a ticket to a blog conference in Asheville North Carolina. Will you do me a favor and vote for me, @racheltayse? Thanks!!child's garden sign Back in the spring we dedicated one raised bed to Lillian for her own garden. She loved the idea and made an adorable sign to mark it as hers.

And then we started arguing. Despite planning to grow peas, carrots, strawberries and other edibles, Lil soon changed her mind and wanted to grow flowers. I had built the soil in the raised bed for two years with the intention of growing food there. Food trumps flowers any day in my book.

childs garden overgrown

We compromised throughout the summer until the garden was a disfunctional mish-mash of marigolds, carrots, and more.

I finally had a breakthrough when looking at our tree yard (the area between the sidewalk and street): why not let Lil establish a garden there?

digging in the treeyarddouble dug treeyard bedfinished flower garden

So in the last two weeks, we turned soil, spread sand, installed pavers (lifted from my parents backyard), planted perennials and a few annuals, mulched, and watered. I sneaked in several edibles including the peach trees that were already there, blueberries lining the walk, and several herbs. Other plants are valuable attractors of pollinators like bees and butterflies. I promised Lil is that every plant has beautiful flowers.

child's flowering edible garden

Still to come is a remade sign. The original one was less waterproof than we thought and we want to make something more permanent.

With the help of a lot of discount plants, the project cost an affordable $52. (Now is a GREAT time to search garden centers for clearance perennials.) Here's the breakdown:

6 24x24 paving stones: free from my parents 5 bags leveling sand: $20 4 blueberries: free, moved from another bed 2 butterfly bush: $12 2 yarrow: $2 2 echinacea: $2 2 mums: $4 4 thyme: free from clintonville coop 3 extra large bags mulch: $12

As for the old garden bed? It is going to be remade into a cold frame for the winter!

This post linked to Simple Lives Thursday.

How to Make "Sun" Dried Tomatoes

A carefully dried tomato can carry the taste of summer's sweet abundance through many seasons.  Dried tomatoes provide a distinct chewy texture and richness to pan sauces and stews.  They can be eaten as is for a quick burst of vitamin C.  Making your own during is not hard at all. Equipment

Dried tomatoes are generally made in one of three ways:

  • in a solar cooker or sun dehydrator
  • in a very low temperature oven
  • in a dehydrator

A solar cooker is great because it saves energy.  You can find simple plans to build them at Mother Earth News and elsewhere.  The downside is that they take more monitoring, including bringing in at night if the temperatures drop and cause dew.

Sliced tomatoes can be dried in a single layer on a cookie sheet in a very low temperature oven (125 deg F maximum).  This temperature is best achieved by leaving the door shut with a gas pilot oven lit.  Unfortunately many modern ovens do not keep the pilot light lit and do not allow such a low temperature setting.

A home dehydrator is the more reliable method for creating great dried tomatoes.  We use an American Harvest model scavenged from my parent's basement.  We set it at 125 deg F and leave for approximately 24 hours.

Method

removing seeds from tomato for dehydrating

Slice your tomatoes in half or in 1/2 inch to 1 inch slices, depending on your preference and equipment.

Remove the core and at least some of the liquidy pulp.  I don't mind the taste of a few dried seeds so it doesn't bother me to leave some in.

paste tomatos in dehydrator

Place tomatoes in a single layer in your desired drying apparatus.  It is not necessary to leave much space in between tomatoes because they will shrink significantly.

Start drying.  Monitor regularly, especially with a solar dryer or oven.

dehydrating tomatoes after 5 hours

Test for doneness by breaking a tomato in half.  You should see no beads of liquid.

dried tomatoes after 18 hours

When tomatoes are done, remove them from the drying apparatus and allow to cool to room temperature.

Package in an airtight container.  You can store at room temperature, in the fridge, or freezer.  Because they take up so little room, I place mine in small plastic bags in the freezer until ready to use.

To cook with dried tomatoes, rehydrate them for 15 - 45 minutes in water, red wine, or broth.  Chop if you wish and toss in a sauce.  If using for a stew, cut dry tomatoes with scissors and then add to your recipe.

Keys to Great Dried Tomatoes

  • Use a fully ripe paste tomato.  The variety pictured in this post is Amish Paste, one I grow at home.
  • Be sure they are fully dry before storage.  Nothing breaks a cook's heart like finding a moldy batch of preserved food!
  • Prepare for shrinkage.  Tomatoes lose approximately 75% of their volume when they are dried.  Approximately 10 pounds of tomatoes will dry down to 4 cups of dried tomatoes.

This post added to Two for Tuesdays.

Sexy Homegrown Tomatoes Bare All

julia child heirloom pink tomatoOh, Julia Child, you dear pink tomato.  Your blushing beauty covers your spicy inside, tempting gardeners for decades. cherokee chocolate heirloom tomatoCherokee Chocolate, dark enchantress of the bunch.  That Christmas colored skin of yours yields to a dark juicy flesh, dripping with sunlight transformed to sweetness.

rutgers heirloom tomatoThen there's you, Rutgers.  Your pleats, your bulbous inundations, inspire a thousand delicious thoughts.

seven heirloom tomatoes

All together, you are a brothel of diversity, a color, size, and flavor for every preference.

seven heirloom tomatos cut open

Sliced raw, you bare your internal beauty, solid flesh giving way to juicy pulp and life renewing seeds.  Your eclectic flavors and textures are inspirational, a summer sensual feast.

Planting for Fall Harvest and a Winner!

radish and carrots planted for fall One of the pleasures of living in Ohio on a small plot of land is that succession planting is relatively easy. Succession planting, or seeding crops right after another, extends your growing season from the same plot of land. It works very well if you fill the space from a plant gone by with a new one that will succeed in the coming weather conditions.

We're a little under two months away from the frost free date here in central Ohio. Vegetables that can be planted now must either mature in 50-60 days or be cold hearty enough to tolerate a little frost. Here are some suggestions:

  • Carrots - plant now and harvest throughout the winter as they get sweeter with age in the ground
  • Radishes - many varieties mature quickly.  We're trying daikon this fall.
  • Beets and Turnips- mildly frost tolerant
  • Swiss Chard and Kale - greens that will keep producing all winter under a cold frame and tolerate frost without a cold frame
  • Lettuces and Spinach - harmed by frost but many mature in under 60 days, check your seed packet

When my broccoli, kale, and potatoes were picked, I planted a variety of these quick maturing veggies in their places.  I reseeded my lettuce containers last week too.  With some help from the weather we will enjoy home grown produce for months to come.

Have you planted anything for autumn harvests?

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Thanks to everyone who entered the Made by Hand giveaway!  There were lots of great ideas. Ultimately I chose 'Book Hounds', the entry first mentioned by Lisa because it is short and sweet. Now I just need to get the dogs to pose with some books for a little logo. Lisa, look for an email so I can send you your prizes!

This post was added to Sustainable Eat's Simple Lives Thursday.

The Garden, She's Been Growin'

overgrown raised bed garden I realize that is has been an obscenely long time since I posted a garden update.  It's not that we haven't been gardening, but that our hands are so frequently covered in dirt that I haven't updated.  Here's what's going on:

  • Peas were a complete failure this year.  Boo!!
  • We ate several meals of broccoli from our two plants.
  • We over-planted tomatoes again.  They are a mess of vines and leaves and glorious fruit tearing down cages, drooping to the ground under all the weight.
  • While we don't weigh every harvest, I estimate we have picked at least 60 pounds of tomatoes so far.  Most are being canned into sauce.
  • Some of our tomatoes are suffering blossom end rot.  I'm treating with eggshell water and powder once weekly and that seems to help.
  • Garlic was harvested in late July.  It's a decent harvest but not as good as last year.
  • We collected 10 pounds potatoes, 18 winter squash, and a few ears of popcorn from the other garden.  Right now there is nothing edible growing there and I'm unsure whether I will plant anything for fall.
  • Potatoes at home have been only remotely successful.  We still haven't harvested from the tower or one of the buckets.  I'll write a potato wrap up post after we complete the harvest.
  • Raspberries are giving up a handful of ripe red fruit every day.
  • Lil's garden carrots and chard have provided ample food for her to snack on and make salads.
  • Green beans are coming on slowly.  I planted several at the end of June and they are just about to bear mountains of beans.  My favorite!
  • Herbs are providing seasoning to our dishes.  I've dried some and we will make a batch of basil pesto for the freezer soon.
  • Kale, the wonder producer, still has leaves on the plant.  I pulled and cooked most of the plants for the Soul Food Potluck.
  • We have two plums on our Italian plum tree.  All the peaches fell in a wind storm and most of our blueberries never fruited.  This winter I plan to spend time studying fruit production.
  • In the last three weeks I have begun fall planting.  I'll detail more about what and when to plant later this week.

What's growing in your world?

All are invited to come visit the garden at our next Homestead Open House on Saturday September 11 from 11 am - 1 pm.  We would love to have you!

Edible Forest Gardens by David Jacke

"The ultimate goal of farming is not the growing of crops, but the cultivation and perfection of human beings."  Masanobu Fukuoka So began the talk 'Home-Scale Ecological Food Production' by David Jacke on Friday July 30, 2010.  Organized by the Ohio Ecological Food and Farming Association, the Clintonville presentation was attended by approximately 70 people.

Jacke, an expert in edible forest gardens and author of a set of books of the same name, continued by explaining that edible forest gardening is a new way of seeing, thinking, and acting in the world.  Humans become co-creators and equal participants in the natural ecosystem.

What is a Forest Garden?

A forest garden mimics the forest as a design metaphor.  It's a consciously designed ecosystem of perennial polycultures, i.e. groups of diverse species that come back year after year.  Each plant has a 3-3000 year lifespan and contributes at least three of the following uses: food, fuel, fiber, fodder, fertilizer, f(ph)armaceutical and fun.

Forest garden plants have ecological functions as soil improvers (such as nitrogen fixers like beans), accumulators soaking up nutrients from deep soil (such as comfrey), or control of the environment (such as ground covers that prevent 'weeds').  Another class of plants provide important food and habitat to beneficial organisms such as pollinating bees.  These include asters, umbels, and mints.

Coppice and Pollard

Plants may contribute to food, fuel, fiber, and fertilizer through coppicing and pollarding.  Coppice is the new growth from a short stump after cutting.  This cutting practice results in many small diameter sticks harvested every few years and a thick hedge like plant in the ground.

Pollard is new growth from a tall stump after cutting.  In this practice, the results are a tall trunk barren of branches with a plethora of branches high in the ground, such as in a grazing field or around overground wires.

The byproducts of coppicing and pollarding, usually thin branches, can be used to fertilize, as animal fodder, as mushroom substrates, or as a material for garden furniture, tool handles, fences, and much more.

Mimicing Ecosystems

Plants gain adaptive advantage when they show emergent properties, that is characteristics that come about because of the interactions of components.  Forest gardening is a case where the whole functioning together equals more than the sum of the individual parts.  Ecosystems that mimic the forest are: resilient, self-maintaining, self-regulating, self-renewing, they produce clean air and water, and increase water storage and biodiversity overtime.

There is, necessarily, a nature-agriculture continuum.  Organic agriculture is moving agriculture towards nature but still reliant on monoculture and inputs.  Forest gardening is making nature more food productive.

Edible Gardening Goals

Edible forest gardens aim towards different goals than traditional or organic agriculture.  Forest gardens hope to achieve:

  • high diverse yields
  • maximum self-maintenance
  • maximum ecological health
  • improve economic stability
  • cultivate and embody a new paradigm: humans are nature and co-creative participants in nature

History

Edible forest gardening has been practiced in Africa, Asia, and Latin America since at least 1000 AD.  Robert Hart creative the first modern western temperate forest garden in 1984 in England.  Jacke shared about visiting Hart's garden.  The loveliness of it actually brought tears to his eyes.

And yet, Hart made every mistake in design in the book.  His patches were unorganized, making harvest difficult.  Pathways were nonexistent, so visitors were constantly trampling plants.  Some partner plants were not complimentary.

Design Principles

From observing Hunt's garden and studying others, Jacke has devised several principles of creating emergent properties.  These are architecture, social structure, self-renewing fertility, and succession.  Each concept is detailed further in the Edible Forest Gardens book.

Gardeners need to learn how to pack plants into patches and habitats with minimal competitive exclusion.  Jacke emphasized several times how important it is to study and understand plants before including them in design.

Species niches are the inherent functions of a species including all interactions between an organism and its environment.  The best designs include species that employ more than one function, ideally at least three.

Plant Guilds

Groups of species that perform a similar function in the community are known as guilds.  Ideally each plant will occupy several guilds within the patch.

You might design with resource partitioning guild in mind, that is plants side by side that share a resource well.  In example of this, Jacke showed a resource partitioning guild of plants that have differing root systems to effectively share shallow and deep sources of water.  In the home garden, one might plant chinkapin, a chestnut bearing shrub with tap roots, next to juneberry or serviceberry, fruit bearing flat rooted species.

A mutual support guild is composed of species whose inherent yields supply another species' inherent needs.  One might plant wild blue indigo, a nitrogen fixing perennial, near fruit bearing pear trees, who need nitrogen to produce.

The proverbial 'Three Sisters' plantings of corn, squash, and beans work because the species compliment each other in several guilds.  Jacke suggested one could make a perennial Three Sisters by planting Jerusalem artichoke aka sunchoke heliantus tuberosa with groundnut apios americana and Chinese artichoke aka mint root stacchys affinis.

A World With Edible Forest Gardens

Surrounded by plant webs of support, stability, and harmony, edible forest gardeners do less work, waste less, and reduce stress to themselves and the environment.  Jacke posits that a community rich in such gardens would be a society full of well fed, healthy, stable people. He concluded "Live in the garden and the garden lives in you."

David Jacke is repeating this public talk this Monday August 9 from 7:30 - 9 pm at the Glen Helen building in Yellow Springs Ohio.  He will also be speaking on 'Soil Ecology and Self-Renewing Fertility' on Wednesday August 11 from 7:30 - 9 pm at the same location.  All presentations are organized and supported by the Ohio Ecological Food and Farming Association.

More information about David Jacke and his book Edible Forest Gardens are available at his website.  The site includes some very useful Resources for Forest Gardeners.

Stewed Chicken with Tomatoes

buff orpington and sussex backyard chickensDear chickens, I know our tomatoes are delicious.  Or rather, I would know, if you didn't keep hen-pecking them before they are fully ripe.

Gardeners should never count their eggs before they hatch with regards to tomatoes, and I did initially believe the dogs or squirrels were stealing the fruit.  I was walking on eggshells waiting to witness something eating the 'maters and suddenly there you were!

I fenced in the tomato plants, but you cocky girls nibbled right through my barrier.  I'm not sure who is the bird brained one now.

I have no choice but to assert myself at the top of the pecking order again.  This poppy cock has to stop.  You are heretofore banished to the back of the yard for free ranging.  A fence that will last until you are old biddies will be installed soon.

backyard chickens grazing

The chicken scratch is on the wall: Leave the garden alone or you'll be cooped up forever.  I rule the roost now!

Mad as a wet hen,

Rachel

PS. I make a mean poultry stew with tomatoes.  Don't play chicken with me.