Salt Cure, Old and New {Charcutepalooza}

Salt is the saline taste humans crave and would perish without. It's also the rock that allows us to preserve foods for long term storage.

The February Charcutepalooza challenge was the salt cure. As we have cured pork belly into bacon and pancetta at least a dozen times , I thought it would be most interesting to share our oldest and most recent cured edibles, both simple salt-only cures.

The Old

A month after Alex received Ruhlman's Charcuterie in 2009, lemons came into season. Salting them into lemon confit is a perfect gateway to meat charcuterie and that's precisely what he did.

Now aged over 2 years in a jar in the back of a cupboard, this confit is not winning any beauty pageants. The texture has disintegrated the previously tough rinds into soft bits that will mash into paste with the slightest effort.

In dressing, sauces, or marinated kale salad, just a quarter teaspoon of rinsed, minced or pasted lemon confit adds strong savory and tangy flavors. It is unlike fresh lemon or salt; instead it's an enriched strengthened combination of the two.

The New

As seasoned charcutiers, we are now true believers in the power of salt. We successfully cured salmon, cod, and pork for our refrigerator-less back country canoe trip this summer, adding meat protein to meals seven days into the trip. With practice, we have become familiar enough to alter recipes and create our own versions like the cider bacon posted last week.

Our latest salt cured project is almost as simple as the lemons, yet more exotic. We salt cured, then water rinsed, and finally air dried tuna. This traditional treatment for tuna in Portugal, Spain, and Italy is called mochama, mojama, and mosciame, respectively. We followed the method on playing with fire and ice.

Again, the final product is unlike fresh tuna. It is rich like jerky yet only subtly salty because of the rinsing. Thus far we have only tasted it raw in paper thin slices but I sense the flavor would be perfect for topping an asian style noodle soup, in a thin layer on a breakfast sandwich with eggs, or as part of a charcuterie plate.

The Future

We fully understand and have practiced the usefulness of salt in curing meat for consumption. We are just beginning to experiment with using it for other purposes. Our refrigerator currently contains one of Speckles the chicken's feet in salt to dehydrate and preserve it for display around Halloween. We plan to salt cure the hide of the next squirrel that crosses Alex's path. And of course we look forward to using salt in future Charcutepalooza challenges.

Added to Hearth and Soul Volume 35.

Cider Syrup Bacon

Italy has prosciutto, German has sausages and Spain has serrano. It seems to me that America's go-to cured meat is bacon.

Long ubiquitous at breakfasts, bacon has recently enjoyed resurgence to cult status, flavoring everything from beer to cupcakes.

With a populace growing in concern about high fructose corn syrup and additives, making bacon has also become the de rigueur for the adventurous home cook. We hopped on the bacon makin' wagon over two years ago and haven't bought a pack of the store bought stuff since.

The process is simple: Rub fresh pork belly (our favorite local source is Blues Creek Meats) with a curing mix of sugar, salt, and pink salt. Under refrigeration, allow the pork to absorb the salt and leach some liquid for 4-7 days. Rinse off the salt, pat dry, and smoke or oven roast. Slice, cook, and viola! You just made the best bacon you've ever tasted.

The joy of home charcuterie rarely stops with the first batch of bacon, however. A curious cook wonders how this or that will affect the flavor and begins experimenting.

This drive to excite our mouths with interesting new flavors led to the discovery of cider syrup bacon. Just as one might make maple flavored bacon by adding maple syrup to the cure described above, we tried adding 1/2 cup of Charlie's Apple Cider Syrup to a five pound batch of bacon last year. It imbibed the pork belly with tangy zest from the apples and the slightest hint of cinnamon.

When we pressed cider and made our own syrup this fall, we made another batch, knowing the ingredients even more intimately. Perfect for winter when we don't always want to fire up the grill, cider syrup bacon is best oven roasted, lest the delicate syrup flavors be overwhelmed by smoking. This charcuterie experiment was a keeper.

If you want to jump into the world of home cured bacon and other tasty meats, we recommend Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn's book Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing. You can also follow the Charcutepalooza blog project in which we are participating. If you learn best in person, join us for our Charcuterie class at Franklin Park Conservatory on March 15 from 6:30 - 8 pm.

Added to Simple Lives Thursday 30th edition.

We Killed and Ate a Backyard Chicken Today

Some may find pictures in this post graphic. Sometimes you have one idea in mind and the day takes a totally different direction. Today was such a day.

A fellow chicken-keeping family called around 10 in the morning and said this was the day they wanted to kill one of their hens. Speckles, a Speckled Sussex like our Sussey, wasn't laying eggs and wasn't following the flock. They invited us to participate. After a quick read of the Hip Chick Digs method for slaughtering a backyard bird, we headed out for our first chicken kill.

Alex held Speckles and we all said goodbye to her. Hanging her upside down by the feet and covering her eyes, Alex yanked the neck to break it. She was dead in less than five seconds.

Our friend cut the head off and Alex held the bird as about a quarter cup of blood drained away. The chicken's body seized and wings flapped, natural post mortem movements.

A large pot of sub-boiling (140 degree) water was brought outside and Alex dunked the body in for twelve seconds to loosen the feathers. A stench not unlike singed hair filled the air.

We carried the body inside and everyone went to work removing feathers. This job was less tedious than we expected, though many hands contributed. Many feathers were saved for the kids to explore and craft with.

Alex started the butchering by removed the neck bones. Then, he carefully cut a 'Y' shape on the lower abdomen, cut between the cloacha (anus) and tail and pulled out the entrails. We were all fascinated with the chicken anatomy.

The two children were interested in all the body parts so while two adults rinsed and chilled the bird, others dissected the heart, observed the intestines, cleaned the liver, and cut open the stomach. Later Alex found the crop, the stone filled sack chickens use to partially digest their food.

Already we would sense that this bird would be different than any we had tasted. Under the skin and around the organs were huge masses of yellow fat. The leg muscles (drumsticks in culinary terminology) were small in comparison to the body size.

Once fully cleaned, our friends invited us to share a lunch of roasted Speckles with them. Alex trussed the bird with skewers and we surrounded her with onions, carrots, celery, and potatoes, all covered with salt and lemon pepper.

The bird cooked quickly. The flesh was chewier than a broiler bird but very mildly flavored. We did not consume the copious fat, leaving most on the carcass to roast with the bones and make stock.

For some reason, the kids attached to the feet. Each wanted one to preserve for 'making into a tree for the train set' and 'making into a halloween decoration'. We are salt curing ours to draw out moisture and then we'll dry it. Even these oft-discarded parts are finding uses.

Like when we slaughtered the pig, I feel like this was an honest end to this chicken. We killed her humanely. Her flesh fed six for lunch and will provide at least one if not two meals for our three friends. Dissecting her body provided an anatomy education for all of us. The children experienced empathy towards animals, one of many lessons to be learned by witnessing an animal slaughter. Once again I conclude that to know a meal from backyard to plate is immensely satisfying.

Christmas Eve Menu 2010

Planning for our annual English-style Christmas Eve Dinner began back in August when we ordered a fresh goose from Cota Farms.  We pick up the bird at noon and will be cooking all day.  Lil will help cook in her newly dyed and embroidered apron, an early present from me. This year our entire immediate family is joining us for this menu:

First course

Green salad

Roasted local pumpkin soup

Passed entrée and sides

Stuffed roasted goose with sour cherry sauce

Mushroom and walnut dressing

Roasted root vegetable medley of potatoes, parsnips, beets, and fennel

Orange-cranberry sauce

Popovers

Dessert

Buche de Noel

What are you cooking and eating tonight?

Handmade Holidays: Dad's Spice Rub

Last week I shared how to make hand-rolled beeswax candles. This week I offer recipes for this spice rub and cocoa mix. The series concludes next Monday with ideas for perfectly packaging your handmade gifts.

My parent's kitchen counter always has a crock of this spice rub alongside the baking canisters. Dad uses this rub for large cuts of meat he later smokes and as a topping for grilled salmon. Because of the sugar content, this rub will flame if used over high direct heat.

When mixed up, this spice mix has an auburn color that looks lovely in a jar topped with a coordinating holiday fabric or an old map as pictured here. Tweak the spices a little, add a label with a catchy title, and you have a tasty gift sure to be appreciated by any cooks on your list.

Dad's Spice Rub from Where There's Smoke, There's Flavor by Richard Langer fills one half pint jar

2/3 cup dark brown sugar 1/4 cup paprika 2 tablespoon garlic powder 1 tablespoon ground cayenne (adjust heat here) 1 tablespoon ground black pepper 1 tablespoon ground white pepper 2 teaspoons ground coriander 1 teaspoon salt

1. Mix all ingredients thoroughly. 2. Store in a sealed container at room temperature. 3. Uses: coat meat with a layer of spice mix and grill or use as a dry rub for larger cuts of meat.

Other handmade food gift ideas: Liqueur Fruit Jam (apple, peach, or strawberry) Applesauce a loaf of bread (no-knead or cranberry) Sugared cranberries

Added to Hearth and Soul blog hop.

Should a Child Witness an Animal Slaughter?

A friend recently asked, knowing that Alex and I slaughtered a pig this spring, "Should my preschooler see an animal being slaughtered?" My answer is yes, with four important caveats. Witnessing an animal slaughter is not only culturally normal in the very recent past but can teach children valuable lessons.

But first the caveats.

1) A child must want to watch the animal being killed and butchered. It is not appropriate for a person of any age to be forced to witness something they are not interested in.

2) The child must be safe. Slaughtering often requires the use of sharp knives, has slippery blood on the ground, and a weighty animal hung. If a child is near, one adult must be dedicated to keeping the child free from the many potential dangers.

3) The slaughter should be individual and humane. I believe that no animal should be slaughter in an inhumane method and witnessing a disturbed animal will disturb a child. Also, the sensory assault of a large commercial-style slaughterhouse might frighten a child. The rest of this post assumes an experience where one animal is slaughtered and butchered at a farm or field-dressed for a hunted animal.

4) The parents must be ready for the consequences. A child will likely ask many questions about death, meat eating, pain, and anatomy. Parents should be prepared to answer questions honestly, throwing in a good "I don't know. Let's find out together," as appropriate.

So what are the potential benefits?

Three to five year olds are fascinated with body parts. Heard any good poop jokes lately? They want to know how the body works. Naming parts and talking about their functions as an animal is butchered fills this development need.

Children do not come with a 'gross' sensor and are unlikely to think a dead animal is yucky until that concept is introduced by someone older. They are fascinated and may want to feel the dead animal. I encourage Lil to use all her senses. We talk about germs and bacteria afterwards while washing with soap.

Preschoolers are very curious about life and death. Even if a child doesn't witness the moment of death, seeing a recently dead animal can help them sort out what dying is like. When we find a dead animal (or watch the chickens kill a mouse), I help Lil notice what happens when an animal dies: it does not move or breathe or stay warm. It doesn't react to anything so we know it can't feel anything anymore.

Understanding what really happens during death helps a child process cultural stories and beliefs about death. After exploring a dead animal, they are more likely to believe that halloween skeletons and zombies are not real. They can see that the animal does not hurt, which may help kids overcome a fear of their own death.

Killing meat animals is part of the human food cycle. I believe that children and adults should explore the sources of all their foods, especially animal products. After seeing first hand where meat comes from, a child might hesitate to eat it. Parents need to be prepared to help the child understand why they believe it is ok to eat meat and what options they will provide in the case of refusal. I explain to Lil that everything we eat, plants and meat, are sacrificed from the natural life cycle. We try to honor that sacrifice by using ingredients to their fullest extent and minimizing waste.

Generations of farm families have allowed their children to participate in the raising and killing of animals. Children who grow up eating the meat they raise are as well adjusted as those who buy meat at the grocery. In fact, kids who understand where meat comes from are more connected to their food system, a characteristic that will make them more conscientious eaters for the rest of their lives. What do you think? Would you want your preschooler to see an animal slaughter?

Us city folk don't always have the opportunity to watch a humane slaughter in person. Many working farm parks do not slaughter their own animals so it can be hard to find a way to watch. I know that Historic Sauder Village does a hog slaughter at least once a year for guests to witness should they want to. Does anyone know of other resources for this?

Added to Simple Lives Thursday and Fight Back Friday.

Buffie Wellies

If you take a beef wellington, shrink it, and substitute buffalo (bison) for beef, behold the Buffie Wellie.

These bite sized bison wellingtons were a hit at my birthday party and as an appetizer for our Thanksgiving meal.  They would be a welcome addition to any special occasion hors d'oeuvres spread.

The Wellie is made of three components: roasted bison, mushroom duxelles, and puff pastry.  The bison can be roasted and duxelles prepared two to twenty four hours in advance and kept cool in the refrigerator.

To assemble, spread out the puff pastry and cut into rectangles with a very sharp knife. Roll each rectangle slightly, keeping everything cool as your work.

Picking up a piece of bison, spoon a little duxelles on top.  Lay the bison on one half of the rectangle and  wrap the rest of the puff pastry over top, pinching the edges.  If making this recipe for a party, fill a few pieces of dough with mushroom only to accommodate vegetarians.

Crimp the open edges with a fork.  Lillian loves to help seal these little snacks. Place on a cookie sheet lined with a Silpat or parchment paper.

Bake the buffie wellies in a hot oven and serve warm.  In my experience, they are eaten before they have a chance to cool!

Buffie Wellies

makes 36 bite sized servings 1 hour cooking and assembly time, 3 hours cooling time 11 ounces frozen puff pastry (we prefer Pepperidge Farm brand or use this method to make your own) 3/4 pound bison roast (round, sirloin, rump) in half inch cubes 1 tablespoon olive oil

1 1/2 cups finely chopped crimini mushrooms 1/2 cup finely chopped shallots 3 tablespoons red wine or port 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh oregano salt and pepper

prepare the bison

1. Salt and pepper the meat.

2. Heat skillet over high heat until hot.

3. Add olive oil.

4. Sear bison in skillet, tossing continuously to reach all sides.  Cook just until browned on the outside.  The inside will still be very rare.

5. Allow to cool to room temperature and then refrigerate until cold.

prepare the duxelles

1. Melt butter in a skillet over low heat.

2. Sweat shallots until translucent.

3. Add mushrooms and cook for two to three minutes.

4. Season with salt, pepper, and oregano.

5. When mushrooms begin to release their own liquid, add the wine or port.

6. Continue to cook until liquid has almost evaporated.

7. Transfer mixture to the food processor and pulse until a smooth paste consistency.

8. Allow to cool to room temperature and then refrigerate until cold.

assemble

1. Thaw puff pastry.  It is important for all steps working with puff pastry to keep it as cool as possible, touching gingerly.

2. Use a very sharp knife to cut dough into 36 pieces, approximately 1 inch by 2 inches.  Keep dough you are not working with in the refrigerator.

3. For each piece, roll or press dough into a slightly larger rectangle.

4. Place 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon duxelles on top of a single piece of buffalo.

5. Place buffalo on one end of the dough.  Wrap remaining dough overtop.

6. Crimp three open sides with a fork.

7. Place on a cookie sheet.

8. Bake for 15-20 minutes in a pre-heated 425 degree oven.  Buffie wellies are done when they are browned all over.

Notes:

It is possible to make buffie wellies ahead and freeze them.  Thaw thoroughly before baking.

When we attempted to keep assembled wellies in the fridge overnight before baking, the pastry was less puffy and browned unevenly.

Added to Hearth and Soul.

Big Mac

I have no pictures of the turkey or family portraits or plates of food from this Thanksgiving.  Instead, I have pictures of Big Mac.

Big Mac is a hog raised by my mother's cousin's family, the Barkers.  After Thanksiving dinner (including the delicious ham of one of Mac's former barn-mates) a group of us went out to visit the pigs.  We found Mac, a solid large Hereford.

And when he turned around, we saw Big Mac's most, um, distinguishing characteristic(s).

None of us could keep our eyes off them, I mean him.

Big Mac's well endowed package also caught the attention of Ohio State Fair officials last year.  Upon entering the competition ring, he was immediately marched to the first place position and bestowed with a Grand Champion honor.

I wonder which end of the hog displayed the blue ribbon?

PS.  Alex believes this post would be more appropriately titled 'Big Mac had a Big Sack.'  What do you think?